Well, it is time for another big update. The past two weeks have been full of progress. I ran out of 1708 and had to order more before I could tab the deck in. Once I had more goodies, we tabbed the deck on with two overlapping layers of 1708 all the way around the hull perimeter, and one layer on the deck seams. I did not do the seams on the sea ray as they all fell in a bulkhead, and were supported enough. The seams in this boat are floating, and I need the strength.
When the tabbing was cured and I had about four hours to spare we filled the hull with 16 cubic feet (two 16lb kits from us composites) of foam below the deck. I drilled a bunch of 1.5 inch holes and a bunch of 3/8" holes to let out the air. I have seen alot of guys do this before the deck goes down, shave the excess, and then put resin on it. I really do not like to do it that way as the foam helps stiffen the deck, and if the deck has any flex to it, you will hear it rubbing on the foam below. If you take you time and pour in small increments, this way provides a better result.
Once we got the deck foamed, and more resin arrived, we put down two layers of 1.5 oz CSM over the whole deck overlapping the seams by four inches. Doing this used up a staggering 3.5 gallons of resin to get it properly wet out. It always amazes me how much resin it takes. What was really crazy is how much it heated up the garage as it cured.
After all of this it was time to think about how we were going to build the tank structure. The two uprights actually support the front part of the cap, and they need to be correct. Sooo, the plan hatched in my head was to put the cap back on and rig up a hoist system so that we can raise and lower the cap to we can build and then test fit out pieces. I called my neighbor and we all grabbed a corner and slide the cap back on . I was really worried about the hull flaring out, and when the cap dropped on with little problems, I was relieved.
I feel like we are actually starting to round the corner on this project, but the costs just keep mounting up. I guess I really knew this would happen, but hey, I love this stuff.
After receiving some feedback about putting 1708 straight onto wood, and how much resin I was using I called US composites to confirm I was doing this right. Their tech guy said a layer of CSM first on a stringer is not needed as long as your surface is smooth (I.E. nice rounded fillets). Because the 1708 has CSM right on the back allows you to do this. Now they could have said yes just to sell more material, so I believe he is being honest. He also said that my usage was correct, and maybe a little over, but a resin rich piece is better than a resin starved piece of glass. You also have to consider waste. I am using cloth rollers that soak up the resin, and I am going though alot, and I would not be surprised if I have a couple gallons of waste from the buckets and rollers. Plus I made up all the PB for the fillets which used alot too. So, moving along.
Here is how the tabs looked on the deck.
Just doing the tabs used almost two gallons of resin
Now it was time for the Foam. I purchased two 16lb kits from US composites for this job, and I used ALLLLL of it.
I used two smaller buckets for the part A and part B measuring and then used a larger bucket for mixing. I had four large buckets, and once one had fully cured, we would pull out the foam and use it again. So by the time I went through the four, the first one was ready.
I drilled alot of these. It feels so wrong doing this!!
When I poured, I used 2X4 pieces of wood to force the foam into all the areas. You have to be very careful doing this.
Laying out the deck glass
This is with the second layer on top. Do not worry about the wrinkles. Once you wet out CSM it will lay down nice.
Two hours later... DONE!
We got the thumbs up for Pops!
Well, it has been a couple of weeks since my last update. We had alot a rain a couple of weeks ago, and something happened to the internet line in my area. you could browse the internet, but you could not upload a large file. They finally got it fixed, and I have been trying to get caught up.
So when we last left off I had just got my Us Composites order in and we were just about to start tabbing in the transom. I put two overlapping tabs of 1708, skinned it with two layers of 1708 and the a final coat of CSM to make it pretty. I then glues the stringers in the hull with PL, made my fillets with PB, and put two layers of 1708 over each stringer. I went ahead and did the PB fillets again because it is fast. It takes alot more resin to do this (1.5 gallons), but it sure makes it easy, and it cures in an hour. I was also able to get the stringers covered in one layup, instead of tabbing them in and then adding a cap. It is really hard to do it this way, but it sure looks cool. Once that was done we measures out the deck with 1/2" foam to get the fit correct and then cut the deck out of high grade A/C exterior ply. We then coated the back of the deck with CSM and glued and screwed this entire thing down. We then put down more PB around the edges and the seams to join the deck to the hull.
After all of that, I ran out of 1708 and I could not do the tabbing for the deck until I got more 1708 from US composites. So you will have to wait till next time for that update.
So on to the fun stuff... pictures and video.
I installed a new style Drain instead of the old mushroom style.
Here you can see how I did the drain to keep water off the bottom of the transom. This is just a piece of PVC that is glued to the drain, and then I filled in around it with PB
Tabbing in the Transom
Two overlapping layers of 1708 for strength.
I used PL just to glue the stringers in, and then held them down with some weight.
My son decided he wanted to start helping on this project. He really wants me to restore a car, but I told him he needs to show some interest in learning all the other skills needed first. You know "wax on, wax off"! So he started to come around and asking to help. Thats my boy! I think it will have to be a car next time guys.
I had to use a 2X4 screwed to the center stringer to hold it straight.
Here is a good shot of the stringers getting glassed
This little bugger was a PIA! I finally got the glass to lay down all around it.
Here is the foam board that we used to make templates. This tuff is waaaay cheaper that that PLY.
Getting closer!
One we got it just the way we wanted it, we could cut the deck
This wood I found sure is pretty.
We then pulled out the deck and coated it with CSM, and I glued and screwed a 2X2 that was saturated in resin to provide a "cleat" to screw too.
I screwed the deck down with SS screws coated in 3m 5200, and then went around with PB to fill all the gaps and glue it to the hull.
I got alot of questions about why I do what I do, and so I made this video on what we will be doing and why.
Ok... time for a huge update. I have been slacking off a little, and I am sorry, but it take alot of time to type all this for the forum, and it has been super laggy for me lately.
So where we left off is with the new engine and the fact I was ready to grind the hull, and start putting things back together. There is just now ands ifs or buts about it, grinding sucks. You must wear the right gear, it is noisy, and after you are done, you feel like there are a million tiny pins poking at your skin. It took me about a day and a half to grind the hull in this boat, and I really had to watch it, as the hull is very thin, and I had to make sure I did not grind through. Now I did not get every square inch of this hull as we are not going with gel coat on the inside, but instead the old school carpet. So I will be spraying glue over the areas that do not get glass, so it does not matter.
I also go the transom cut out, the stringers cut, and the transom glued into place. I chose to go with PL glue for the transom this time, as I was not really in a huge hurry, and it gives you alot more working time before you cannot work with it any more. The next step is to tab the transom in.
Safety gear is a must. Tyvek suit, gloves, respirator, eye protection, and ear protection. I use 4 1/2" angle grinder with a 36 grit flap wheel.
This was after about three house of grinding. You just want to get to good glass, do go too far.
This is after most of it was done, and I was test fitting the old stringers and taking some more measurements.
I was able to find A/C Arauco Ply at one HD for the transom and deck. It is just so nice, but very expensive.
I glues the two pieces together, screwed the middle, clamped the sides, and then cut out the shape. I used my marker on a stick method of making a template. See the video for detailed instructions.
I love this little tool. It allows me to find the angle of anything and transfer it over to what needs to be cut.
You just loosen up the thumb screw, push it in place, tighten the screw, and then transfer it to your wood. This allowed me to get the right angle for the bottom of the transom, so it would hug the hull.
We also replaced the cap screw strip all the way around. We used PL to glue it in, and will go back over it with resin to give it some protection.
Dad came up with this idea. We made little cuts to allow it to go around the corner. We then put PL glue in the cuts for strength.
I then used the old stringers to make the new ones
The center stringer is much taller than the other two and i will cut it to height when i get it glued in the boat. You can see the mock transom I had in the back to push the stringers up against.
I beveled the edges of this transom to see if it makes it easier to lay glass over. If anything it looks cool. I also took the drain hole idea from the Sea Ray, and I am using it here. I am not going to use a brass drain tube, I am using a screw in garboard drain. I will attache a small bit of PVC pipe to it and then encase the area in PB. It will make since later. This will protect the bottom part of the transom from rot.
When you put it up to the skin to trace out the key hole you want to space it up about 1/8" to 1/4" off the hull (hence the stir sticks) to allow your PL glue or PB to "bed" the transom. You do not want the wood right on the hull.
I then Slathered on a good layer of PL glue and used a Notch Trowel to spread it out, and then stuck it. I use 2X4 wood turned on end to clamp the transom.
Yes, I signed it. I think the fumes were getting to me.
So here is about an hour of video to kill some time
