So where we left off is with the new engine and the fact I was ready to grind the hull, and start putting things back together. There is just now ands ifs or buts about it, grinding sucks. You must wear the right gear, it is noisy, and after you are done, you feel like there are a million tiny pins poking at your skin. It took me about a day and a half to grind the hull in this boat, and I really had to watch it, as the hull is very thin, and I had to make sure I did not grind through. Now I did not get every square inch of this hull as we are not going with gel coat on the inside, but instead the old school carpet. So I will be spraying glue over the areas that do not get glass, so it does not matter.
I also go the transom cut out, the stringers cut, and the transom glued into place. I chose to go with PL glue for the transom this time, as I was not really in a huge hurry, and it gives you alot more working time before you cannot work with it any more. The next step is to tab the transom in.
Safety gear is a must. Tyvek suit, gloves, respirator, eye protection, and ear protection. I use 4 1/2" angle grinder with a 36 grit flap wheel.
This was after about three house of grinding. You just want to get to good glass, do go too far.
This is after most of it was done, and I was test fitting the old stringers and taking some more measurements.
I was able to find A/C Arauco Ply at one HD for the transom and deck. It is just so nice, but very expensive.
I glues the two pieces together, screwed the middle, clamped the sides, and then cut out the shape. I used my marker on a stick method of making a template. See the video for detailed instructions.
I love this little tool. It allows me to find the angle of anything and transfer it over to what needs to be cut.
You just loosen up the thumb screw, push it in place, tighten the screw, and then transfer it to your wood. This allowed me to get the right angle for the bottom of the transom, so it would hug the hull.
We also replaced the cap screw strip all the way around. We used PL to glue it in, and will go back over it with resin to give it some protection.
Dad came up with this idea. We made little cuts to allow it to go around the corner. We then put PL glue in the cuts for strength.
I then used the old stringers to make the new ones
The center stringer is much taller than the other two and i will cut it to height when i get it glued in the boat. You can see the mock transom I had in the back to push the stringers up against.
I beveled the edges of this transom to see if it makes it easier to lay glass over. If anything it looks cool. I also took the drain hole idea from the Sea Ray, and I am using it here. I am not going to use a brass drain tube, I am using a screw in garboard drain. I will attache a small bit of PVC pipe to it and then encase the area in PB. It will make since later. This will protect the bottom part of the transom from rot.
When you put it up to the skin to trace out the key hole you want to space it up about 1/8" to 1/4" off the hull (hence the stir sticks) to allow your PL glue or PB to "bed" the transom. You do not want the wood right on the hull.
I then Slathered on a good layer of PL glue and used a Notch Trowel to spread it out, and then stuck it. I use 2X4 wood turned on end to clamp the transom.
Yes, I signed it. I think the fumes were getting to me.
So here is about an hour of video to kill some time
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